Escenografía y Vestuario I (Final)

8/17/2019 Escenografía y Vestuario I (Final)

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?$)*-(2( 2$ +%'% %C$0&%2%= $)&-/( 1-$/%3$1&$ $1 6(8% .% 6%'6% 5 $.

+%6$..( '$+('&%2( *(' $. +()&%2( % .% %.&-'% 2$ .%) ('$M%) 5 *(' 2$.%1&$ D%)&% 3$20% C'$1&$9?$&%..$)

•Las botas de los hombres tienen tacos altos, la hebilla que cierra los zapatos por delante tieneC('3% 2$ -1% '()% $1('3$9

•Tahalí o banda de raso cruzado sobre pecho 5 D(36'( $) -)%2( &%1&( *(' D(36'$) +(3( *('3-M$'$)9 7. 2$. V$5 $) 2$ +(.(' 6.%1+(9

• La espada se cuelga de una pretina de cuero .

• Durante el reinado de Enrique IV se calzó un sombrero de fieltro, ala angosta y copa alta,%2('1%2( +(1 +01&%)= *.-3%) 5 M(5%)9 N$ -)%'(1 .() )(36'$'() 2$ a+%)&('a +(1 %.%) %1+D%) 5+(*% 2$ 3$20% %.&-'%

• El miriñaque o verdugado crece hasta alcanzar enormes proporciones. Su línea crea, desde la+01&-'%= -1% C('3% +0.>12'0+% )$3$M%12( -1 &%36('9 W&'% 2$ )-) C('3%) $) %3*.0% % .()+()&%2() 5 +D%&% 2$.%1&$ 5 2$&',)9 7. 30'0J%G-$= ( )$% .% C%.2% G-$ )0'/$ 2$ 6%)$= $) 2$+%J%3%;( ( &$.% *$)%2% +(1 '$C-$';() 2$ 3%2$'% ( %+$'( 9 B(' $1+03% 2$ $..( 5 %&%2( % .%)+%2$'%) )$ +(.(+% $. %.3(D%241 '$2(12(= .-$8( &'$) $1%8-%) 6('2%2%) 5 +(1 *.0$8-$)9U01%.3$1&$= $. /$)&02(9

• Se usa el corsé ajustado por medio de cordones, sobre éste se coloca un artefacto de acero+(1 60)%8'%) 2$ -1 .%2( 5 8%1+D() 2$. (&'( C(''%2( $1 &$'+0(*$.(9 Z1% /$'2%2$'% %'3%2-'%9

• Volados, cintillas y puños de lenc $'>% &$'301%1 $. +-$'*( 2$. /$)&02(9

• El cuello se abre en forma de "abanico", alto atrás y muy escotado (cuello de Medicis).

• El manto de género fino, montado en alambre y por encima de los hombros, sigue de modaI:(1G-$)K9

• Los vestidos para fiestas s (1 6('2%2() +(1 *0$2'%)= ('(= *.%&% 5 *$'.%)9 N$ ..$/%1 '$.(M$)9

• El peinado de las damas es muy levantado en la frente, ondulado y con postizos.

• Los guantes perfumados "a la Frangipani" (Marqués de...).

• Los caballeros usan guantes.

• Aparece el @%1&$%-T 2$ 3-M$' I&%*%2(K9

• Hacia el 1600 el vertugado tiene dimensiones exageradas (Velázquez, Rubens) hechos enC.$M$) 2$ 3%2$'% ( 2$ D0$''( ( 2$ +%'&>.%8( 2$ 6%..$1%K9

• Richelieu publica un edicto contra el lujo.


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• La moda es más austera y elegante.

• El reinado de Luis XIII aporta importantes modificaciones: la ropa se viriliza. Chaqueta, cuello,+%*%= *%1&%.(1$)= 6(&%)9

!"#$%&'&"#() + ,"#"-$.&/$/"0

B'03$'% 30&%2

• Uso de máscaras de calle, en terciopelo negro forradas en seda blanca. Tienen un botó 1 2$/02'0( *%'% )$' %8%''%2( $1 .% 6(+%= 2%1 .% /$1&%M% 2$ +%360%' $. &(1( 2$ /(;9

• Aparecen las medias de seda, antes eran de tricot de lana.

• Mangas sueltas sostenidas por cordones F?+ &$'301%1 $1 D$''%M$) 2$ *-1&%9 :%.;(1$) >2$39

• Calzado cuadrado.

• Chaqueta escotada cuadrada que deja ver la camisa.

• Novedad: aparición de uniformes militares, cada cuerpo o banda tiene uno.

• Aparecen los vertugados, las crinolinas, los tontillos, durarán más de 100 años. (Armazones*%'% .%) C%.2%)K9

• Corpiño basqu 01$= %1+$)&'( 2$. +(')1 5 *.-3% 2$ %/$)&'-;9

• Peinado femenino: raya al 3$20(= 2() 6%12%) (12-.%2%)= +D081(1 %.&(9

• Uso de redecillas (bordadas con perlas, etc.)

N$8-12% 30&%2

• Corpiño de mujer ajustado y vertugado. Da aspecto de campana.

• Desde 1570 aproximadamente la bragueta fue suprimida.

• Se alarga la figura femenin %= $. &%..$ $) 3,) .%'8(9

• El cuello cada vez más grande.

• Uso de conques de tela ligera (capas).

• Aparece el manchón o manguito (Abrigo de las manos).


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• Se usa el alto patín veneciano. Chapines.

• Joyas y aros, guantes y perfumes.

• Se usa la capa $)*%J(.%9

• Las bragas son anchas y bajan hasta la rodilla. Se atan con ligas de cinta y extremos de$1+%M$9 ?$ 8'%1 3(2% $1 D(36'$) 5 3-M$'$)9

• Guantes de seda o raso, terciopelo u oro que llegan hasta los codos. En el dorso de la mano)$ %2('1%1 +(1 6('2%2() ( *0$2'%)9

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8/17/2019 Escen

Escenografía y Vestuario I (Final)

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Transcript of Escenografía y Vestuario I (Final)